The Zieglers — a San Francisco Chronicle reporter and illustrator — quit their jobs, bought 500 Spanish Civil War paratrooper shirts at $1.50 each, and sold them at a flea market, building a brand around hand-drawn catalogues, travellers' stories and safari-themed stores. Gap acquired the company in 1983, shortened the name and rebranded it upscale; by 1988 the founders had lost creative control as the eccentric tourist items gave way to accessible mass luxury.
In the 2020s, VP of design Nicole Wiesmann re-envisioned the brand with editorial campaigns evoking luxury houses and higher-end garments compared favourably with Ralph Lauren and The Row. A 2023 fall/winter capsule was produced with designer Peter Do.