The brand grew out of education, not marketing. After arriving in Los Angeles in 1983, the Wurwands founded the first International Dermal Institute in Marina del Rey to train skin therapists; two years later, prompted by student requests and her own sensitive skin, Jane set out to develop products free of common irritants like lanolin, SD alcohol, mineral oil, artificial colours and fragrances. Dermalogica premiered in 1986, sold through salons, spas and concept spaces rather than ordinary shelves.
Today the brand is sold in more than 80 countries and operates as a subsidiary of Unilever, which acquired it in 2015. It still runs the International Dermal Institute, training tens of thousands of professional skin therapists every year and driving the research behind its products.