Dooney & Bourke

If you want a leather bag built to last rather than a fast-fashion piece, the brand has a loyal following for good reason. Dooney & Bourke is an American leather goods house that specialises in handbags and small accessories, and its reputation rests on durable, well-made leather. Many owners keep their bags for years, so the value tends to show up over the long run.

It comes down to what you want from the bag, and the two are genuine rivals. Wikipedia lists Coach and Kate Spade among Dooney & Bourke's competitors, all occupying the accessible end of the leather-goods market. Dooney & Bourke leans toward classic, durable leather craft, so if longevity matters more to you than chasing the newest trend, it is a natural pick.

It is the collection that put the brand on the map for handbags. Dooney & Bourke debuted its first women's handbags with the 1981 launch of the "All-Weather Leather" collection, featuring pebble-textured leather, smooth leather trim, and a tongue-and-loop closure. That hardwearing, weather-ready leather became a signature of the house.

Start with the craftsmanship the brand is known for. Look closely at the leather quality, the evenness of the stitching and the weight of the hardware, since the genuine article is built around durable leather and solid construction. Buying from the brand's own store or an established, reputable retailer is the surest way to know you are getting the real thing rather than a copy.

No, it began with menswear accessories. The company started in 1975 making men's leather belts and suspenders, handmade by Peter Dooney and inspired by military gear, mail pouches and saddlebags, and it originally supplied belts, suspenders and ties. Women's handbags only arrived with the All-Weather Leather launch in 1981.

Yes, it is American to the core. Dooney & Bourke was founded in 1975 in Norwalk, Connecticut, and it still has its own store there. That Connecticut home has been part of the brand's identity from the very beginning.

Two partners with complementary roles. Designer Peter Dooney and entrepreneur Frederic Bourke launched their namesake brand in 1975, with Dooney as CEO of manufacturing and marketing and Bourke serving as principal finance and investment officer. The pairing of a maker and a money mind is right there in the name.

Yes. Peter Dooney has maintained his role as designer at the company throughout the brand's history, which is unusual for a house with this much heritage. That continuity helps explain the consistent, leather-led aesthetic across decades.

Stick to established retail channels. Dooney's merchandise is distributed in Dillard's and Macy's, as well as Dooney's own store in Norwalk, Connecticut. Shopping through the brand's own store or a recognised department-store partner is the safest route to a genuine bag.

It has. In 2006 the Emma Bag, a small oval-sized bag, was named after Emma Roberts, and in 2007 actress Hayden Panettiere created a line for Dooney that included the Hayden bag and the Chiara, a patent leather bag. Those collaborations gave several styles their recognisable names.

Yes, and it ended in Dooney's favour. In April 2004 Louis Vuitton filed suit claiming Dooney had infringed its Murakami Monogram Multicolore collection, but on 30 May 2008 the court ruled in favour of Dooney & Bourke and dismissed the case. It is a notable moment in the brand's history.