Gottlieb sold her wedding ring for capital, bought fabric and borrowed a sewing machine, adapting her expertise as a raincoat manufacturer into a swimwear company. The flower motifs in her designs were a tribute to the bouquets she hid behind at checkpoints during the German occupation of Hungary. A pioneer of hard-cup swimsuits, Gottex was the first manufacturer to introduce spandex.
By the 1980s the suits were worn by Diana, Princess of Wales, Queen Sofía of Spain, Elizabeth Taylor and Brooke Shields; in 1993 Gottex was America's top swimsuit import. Gottlieb headed the design team until 1998, and the house was acquired by Lev Leviev's Africa-Israel Group in 1997.