
Calvin Klein
Minimalism, denim and the famous waistband — the New York label that made the world care about underwear.
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Calvin Klein
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Klein opened a coat shop in New York's York Hotel with $10,000 and won his first Coty American Fashion Critics' Award in 1973 as its youngest-ever recipient. By putting his name on the back pocket he sparked a designer-jeans craze, and his marketing turned men's underwear into a branded statement — the boxer brief, pioneered under the house in the early 1990s, was called "one of the greatest apparel revolutions of the century."
Headquartered in Midtown Manhattan, the company was acquired by PVH Corp. for around $700 million in 2003, with global retail sales under the brand reaching $9.3 billion in 2022. Creative leadership has passed through Francisco Costa, Italo Zucchelli and Raf Simons, with Veronica Leoni appointed in 2024 to lead the revived Collection line.
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You are partly paying for one of the most recognizable waistbands in fashion, and that is no accident. Calvin Klein's men's underwear was the line that, in the 1980s, helped turn underwear from a three-pack your mother bought into something men chose by brand. The fit, soft cotton blends and clean cut hold up well, so for everyday comfort the value is genuine, even if the famous logo carries some of the premium.
Start where the brand built its name: the logo-waistband underwear or a pair of Calvin Klein Jeans. Klein created the designer-jeans craze in the mid-1970s simply by putting his name on the back pocket, and underwear became the signature in the 1980s. Either is the most quintessentially Calvin Klein thing you can own, and both are easy to wear day to day.
The portfolio is layered by tier. Calvin Klein Collection was the upscale top-end runway line (renamed Calvin Klein 205W39NYC in 2017, discontinued in 2019 and revived in 2025); ck Calvin Klein sits as the bridge/diffusion grey label; and the white-label Calvin Klein covers core sportswear, with separate Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear lines. Knowing the label tells you roughly where a piece sits in price and polish.
The scents are Calvin Klein lines, but like most fashion fragrances they are produced under license. Obsession, CK Be and Eternity were long handled by Calvin Klein Cosmetics, a Unilever company, and the fragrance licensing was later bought by Coty. So the names and identity are pure CK; the bottling and distribution sit with specialist partners.
Calvin Klein was founded in 1968 by designer Calvin Klein and his childhood friend Barry K. Schwartz, starting as a coat shop in the York Hotel in New York City with just $10,000. Its first collection, a line of understated coats and dresses, was carried by Bonwit Teller, and by September 1969 Klein had landed on the cover of Vogue. It has been an American label since day one.
Calvin Klein is owned by PVH Corp., which acquired the company in 2003 for a total of around $700 million. In 2013 PVH also bought the Warnaco Group, a major Calvin Klein licensee, for about $2.8 billion, uniting the formal, underwear, jeans and sportswear lines under one roof. The founder himself stepped away from running the label after that 2003 sale.
Like many fashion houses, Calvin Klein built its identity around a monogram, the lowercase ck emblem. It distills the founder's name into a clean, minimalist mark that mirrors the brand's whole aesthetic, and it is the badge that turns underwear and basics into instantly recognizable Calvin Klein pieces.
They are both American labels, but they pull in different directions. Calvin Klein trades on minimalism, clean lines and a sleek, modern look, and it is strongest in underwear and basics. Tommy Hilfiger leans preppy and all-American with bolder color and more visible branding. If you want understated essentials, Calvin Klein fits; if you want colorful casual wardrobe pieces, Tommy may suit you better. Interestingly, both now sit under the same parent, PVH.
Calvin Klein played a defining role in making them mainstream. During John Varvatos's stint as the brand's head of menswear design in the early 1990s, the label pioneered the boxer brief, a hybrid of boxer shorts and briefs. Made famous by a 1992 print campaign with Mark 'Marky Mark' Wahlberg, the boxer brief has been called one of the greatest apparel revolutions of the century.
The brand has long courted attention with provocative campaigns. A 1980 Calvin Klein Jeans ad photographed by Richard Avedon featured a fifteen-year-old Brooke Shields with the line 'Nothing comes between me and my Calvins,' and some versions were banned. The 1995 jeans adverts also drew heavy criticism. The provocations became part of the brand's reputation, for better and worse.
Calvin Klein is widely stocked, which is part of its accessibility. In the US it sits in major department stores such as Macy's and Nordstrom, with the Collection line carried by higher-end retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman. There are also dedicated Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear boutiques worldwide, plus strong online availability, especially for underwear and fragrance.