Rochas

If you love classic, complex fragrances, Femme rewards the patience. It is the scent the house was best known for, famously packaged in a pink box trimmed with black lace, and it can take a wearing or two to fully bloom on your skin. Sample it first if you can, since it is more of an old-world statement than an easy everyday spritz.

Rochas is a heritage French house with a long lineage of refined, feminine design, and that pedigree shows in the make and finish of its pieces. Founded in 1925 by Marcel Rochas, it has been steered by a succession of respected creative directors, which keeps the quality and the point of view consistent. Expect elegance and craft rather than logo-driven flash.

For most of its history Rochas was known above all for its signature perfume, Femme, to the point that for decades the name lived mainly as a fragrance. The fashion side has had several celebrated chapters too, but if you are buying one thing first, Femme is the piece most tied to the house's identity.

Rochas was founded in 1925 by the French fashion designer Marcel Rochas. He was an inventive figure in his era, credited as the first designer of 2/3-length coats and skirts with pockets, and one of two designers, alongside Elsa Schiaparelli, who launched the fashion for padded shoulders in 1931.

Yes. Rochas is a French fashion, beauty and perfume house, established in Paris and rooted in the French couture tradition. That Parisian heritage runs through everything from its tailoring instincts to its fragrances.

The current creative director is Alessandro Vigilante, appointed in December 2023. He had previously worked at houses including Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci, and continues to produce a line under his own name alongside his work for Rochas.

After Marcel Rochas died in 1955, the house existed only as a fragrance for decades. A clothing line was not revived until 1990, when Wella, which made the classic Femme scent, brought ready-to-wear back with designer Peter O'Brien. So for a long stretch, Rochas was a perfume you could buy but not a dress.

Belgian-born Olivier Theyskens served as creative director from 2002 to 2008 and gave the house renewed fashion recognition, credited with an entirely new, French-influenced silhouette. His approach leaned toward demicouture, with some gowns priced upwards of $20,000, which earned critical praise even as it raised questions about the business model. If you collect Rochas, this is one of its most celebrated chapters.

Beyond founder Marcel Rochas, the house has been guided by a notable run of creative directors: Peter O'Brien from 1990, Olivier Theyskens (2002 to 2008), Marco Zanini (2008 to 2013), Alessandro Dell'Acqua (2014 to 2020), Charles de Vilmorin (2021 to 2023) and Alessandro Vigilante from 2024. Knowing the era helps you place a vintage piece.

Yes, though it came late. Rochas unveiled its first menswear collection in 2017, created by French designer Béatrice Ferran. For most of its history, the house was focused on womenswear, fragrance and beauty.

During the Olivier Theyskens years, Rochas attracted a high-profile following, with clients including Nicole Kidman, Jennifer Aniston, Kirsten Dunst, Kate Bosworth, Jennifer Lopez, Rachel Weisz and Sarah Jessica Parker. That red-carpet pull is part of why pieces from that era are sought after.

A good entry point is the fragrance, Femme, since it is the most iconic and accessible expression of the house. If you are drawn to the fashion, learning which creative director was behind a given era, from Theyskens to the current Vigilante, helps you choose pieces that match the silhouette and mood you love. Buy what speaks to you rather than chasing a season.