He developed pantyhose in black-and-white patterns — dots, stars, skulls, stripes, animal prints and every kind of fishnet — and loved fluorescent colour. In 1970 he opened his own company, Stilnovo Spa, in San Miniato, producing not only his own work but hosiery for houses including Dior, Celine, Balenciaga, Gucci and Alexander McQueen.
His eponymous brand launched in 1980 to immediate success, expanding into shoes, leather accessories, swimwear and an avant-garde clothing line, with licensee stores from Florence and Milan to Paris, London, Hong Kong and Tokyo. By 2009 Stilnovo produced four million fashion tights a year. Italy made him Cavaliere del Lavoro in 1986.