Luigi Fedeli started the company as a hat-maker in via Arosio, and before the war Fedeli was known across Italy for its hats; during the German occupation it shut down rather than produce military leather goods, and the family withdrew to Brunate near Como. In the post-war years, under Luigi's son Rodolfo Fedeli, the company pivoted to knitwear — cardigans, v-necks and roll-necks — expanding into women's lines through the 1950s and 1960s.
Answering British competition, Fedeli reinvested in machinery and enlarged its factory in 1962, and a collaboration with Roberta di Camerino pushed its designs beyond the British template. From the 1970s, cashmere became its core material and its signature.