Peugnet (1957–2017) had worked as an assistant to Lagerfeld and, in 1982, led a design team at Chanel that revamped the house silhouette a year before Lagerfeld took over. Alongside Azzedine Alaïa, he pioneered the 'bandage' dress — body-conscious garments made from foundation-garment materials that mold and shape the figure. A defining quirk: Hervé Léger pieces are knitted, not woven.
Ownership tracks the brand's reach. In 1998 it was acquired by the BCBG Max Azria Group — the first acquisition of a French couturier by an American designer — and after BCBG's bankruptcy it passed to Marquee Brands and then Authentic Brands Group in 2017. American designer Michelle Ochs, cofounder of Cushnie et Ochs, became creative director in 2023.