Pomellato

For many collectors the Nudo is the one Pomellato piece that justifies itself. Its whole idea is to leave a single faceted stone almost naked in its setting, which is why it photographs and stacks so well. If you love colourful, sculptural Italian jewellery you can actually wear every day rather than save for occasions, the Nudo is the natural first purchase.

Pomellato jewellery is handmade by goldsmiths, with the emphasis on rounded, tactile forms and an irregular, hand-set pavé that uses gemstones of varying sizes and colours. That stone-cutting and setting work is labour-intensive and hard to mass-produce, which is a large part of the cost. You are paying for craft and a distinctive design language rather than just the gold and stones themselves.

Both are Italian houses that love colour, but they pull in different directions. Bulgari leans into bold, glamorous Roman design, while Pomellato takes a more playful, fashion-forward approach built around colourful gemstones and chunky, wearable silhouettes like the Nudo. If you want jewellery to change and stack like clothes rather than wear as a formal statement, Pomellato is the more relaxed choice.

The most recognisable starting points are the famous collections: Nudo, Capri, Sabbia, M'Ama Non M'Ama, Iconica, Victoria and Tango. Nudo is the icon and the easiest entry, with rings designed to be layered. From there many collectors branch into the pavé-heavy or chain-led pieces, since chains are something the house has long been known for.

Pomellato jewels have very recognisable features: an emphasis on rounded, tactile forms, and a pavé given a deliberately irregular, random look by mixing gemstones of various sizes and colours. The house also uses openwork, including on jet. That hand-done, slightly asymmetric quality is what makes a piece read as Pomellato rather than generic fine jewellery.

Pomellato is an Italian jewellery company founded by Pino Rabolini in Milan in 1967. From the start it introduced the idea of prêt-à-porter jewellery, the notion that jewellery is not just a status symbol but an accessory to be worn at any moment and changed like clothes. That ready-to-wear philosophy still defines the brand today.

The name comes from the image of a small horse head that featured on the corporate hallmark used in the atelier. It is a quiet nod to the house's Milanese origins rather than a founder's surname. That kind of understated heritage detail is very much in keeping with the brand's character.

Pomellato was acquired by the luxury group Kering in July 2013. Sabina Belli has served as CEO of the Pomellato group since December 2015, and Vincenzo Castaldo has been creative director since 2004. That continuity in the creative role is part of why the design language has stayed so consistent.

In 1995 Pomellato launched a second brand called Dodo. The name was chosen because the dodo is an extinct species, used as a reminder of the need to protect nature. It sits as a more playful, charm-led companion line to the main Pomellato collections.

Yes. In 2007, to celebrate its 40th year, Pomellato made its high-end jewellery debut with the launch of the Pom Pom collection: 40 pieces sold by appointment in New York, Paris, Milan and Monte Carlo. It marked the moment the house stepped beyond everyday fine jewellery into one-off, appointment-only pieces.

Pomellato is a serious Milanese house with decades of heritage and a recognisable design signature, which helps its best-known pieces hold interest on the secondary market. As with any fine jewellery, condition, the original collection and how iconic the model is all matter, with Nudo being the most sought-after. Buy it because you will wear it; treat any resale value as a bonus rather than the reason.