Raised in Versailles, she began at Elle magazine after an editor noticed her personal style, then moved into freelance fashion design. She opened her first boutique in Les Halles in 1976, drawing on clothes found at the flea market, and in 1979 created the snap cardigan by cutting up a crewneck and adding snap buttons — an ageless, timeless staple "from New York to Tokyo to Paris."
She added menswear in 1981, opened her first international store in New York's SoHo in 1983, and grew into perfume, cosmetics, watches and eyewear for Seiko, and a beauty line for L'Oréal. She uses the brand to finance art and cinema — opening the Galerie du Jour in 1984 and backing filmmakers including Gaspar Noé and Claire Denis. She is a Chevalier of the Légion d'honneur.