A former model with a tailoring education from the Royal Court in Stockholm, Margaretha Ley became known for bold, feminine designs — exquisite inlays and appliqués, unusual combinations of colour and pattern, exclusive embroidery and elaborately designed knitwear. The company went public in 1986 and, over the decades, ran labels from Crisca and Laurèl to Escada Sport, introduced its first signature scent in 1990 and dressed clients including Diana, Princess of Wales, who wore an Escada coat to Berlin in 1987.
After Margaretha Ley's death in 1992, design passed through Todd Oldham, Damiano Biella, Daniel Wingate and Niall Sloan, who marked the house's 40th anniversary with a Spring/Summer 19 show at New York Fashion Week. Ownership changed too: insolvency in 2009 led to acquisition by the Mittal family, then a sale in October 2019 to Beverly Hills private-equity firm Regent, L.P.