Brand · British heritage house est. 1851

Aquascutum

The inventor of waterproof wool — 'watershield' in Latin, and the trench coat's original home.

Aquascutum
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Aquascutum was established in 1851 by tailor John Emary, who in 1853 patented the first waterproof wool and renamed his Regent Street shop 'Aquascutum' — Latin for 'watershield.'

Its waterproof cloth clothed officers in the Crimean War and the trench coats of soldiers in both World Wars. King Edward VII became its first royal client, and a royal warrant followed in 1897 — the first of a long line of British royal patronage. The brand's trench coats have been worn by three Princes of Wales, Margaret Thatcher and Winston Churchill, while its wyncol fabric was used by Edmund Hillary on the first confirmed ascent of Everest in 1953.

Family-owned until 1990, the house passed through Japan's Renown, the Broadwick Group and Hong Kong's YGM Trading before being acquired by China's Shandong Ruyi in 2017. Along the way it staged its first London Fashion Week runway in 2005 and collaborated with Supreme on an eight-piece collection.

Aquascutum shopping FAQ

Is an Aquascutum trench coat worth it?+

For a true heritage trench, it is one of the most credible names you can buy. Aquascutum's waterproof fabric clothed officers in the Crimean War and soldiers of all ranks in both world wars, so the trench is the garment the house was effectively built around. Bought well and cared for, it is the kind of coat meant to outlast trends rather than chase them.

How does Aquascutum compare to Burberry for a trench?+

They are the two great British trench houses, so the comparison is fair and close. Aquascutum's claim to history is technical: in 1853 it patented the first waterproof wool and named itself after it. Choose Aquascutum for that quieter, originator's heritage; the two sit shoulder to shoulder on pedigree, so it comes down to fit and the cut you prefer.

What does the name Aquascutum mean?+

It is Latin for "watershield." Founder John Emary adopted the name in 1853 after he succeeded in producing the first waterproof wool and had the discovery patented, renaming the company around that breakthrough. The name is, in effect, the product description.

When and where was Aquascutum founded?+

Aquascutum was established in 1851, the year of the Great Exhibition, when tailor and entrepreneur John Emary opened a high-quality menswear shop at 46 Regent Street in London. In 1901 the company moved to 100 Regent Street, anchoring its identity to that famous address.

What is the Aquascutum signature check?+

The house is associated with the Prince of Wales check, the pattern in which King Edward VII, Aquascutum's first royal client, ordered an Aquascutum coat. That early royal endorsement helped turn the brand's checked outerwear into a recognisable British signature.

Why is Aquascutum significant in British fashion history?+

Because it more or less invented modern weatherproof tailoring. After patenting the first waterproof wool in 1853, it dressed officers through the Crimean War and supplied trench coats in both world wars, then carried that authority into civilian fashion. In 1900 it opened a womenswear department offering water-repellent capes and coats, popular among British suffragettes.

Did Aquascutum have royal patronage?+

Yes, and an early one. King Edward VII was its first royal client, and in 1897 Aquascutum was granted a royal warrant, the first that would mark the British royal family's long patronage of the company. Its trench coats have been worn by three Princes of Wales.

Which famous people have worn Aquascutum?+

An impressive roll-call. Beyond three Princes of Wales, the house has dressed Winston Churchill, Margaret Thatcher, Prince Rainier of Monaco, and screen names including Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall, Sophia Loren, Cary Grant, Sean Connery and Michael Caine.

Is there an Aquascutum link to Mount Everest?+

There is. In 1953 the brand's wyncol fabric, designed to withstand 100 mph winds, was used by explorer Edmund Hillary in the first confirmed ascent of Mount Everest. It is a neat illustration of how the house's weatherproofing reached well beyond the city street.

Who owns Aquascutum now?+

Aquascutum is owned by Shandong Ruyi. The brand was family owned until 1990, when it was purchased by the Japanese textile conglomerate Renown Incorporated, and it has changed hands several times since before arriving at its current ownership.

How should I care for an Aquascutum coat?+

Treat it as a long-term piece, because it is built to be one. Brush a heritage trench down after wear, spot-clean marks promptly and rely on a specialist dry cleaner rather than home washing to protect the weatherproofing the house is known for. Stored on a sturdy hanger between seasons, a good Aquascutum coat ages into character rather than out of style.