Story & heritage

The bag now known as the Lady Dior was designed in 1994 under Gianfranco Ferré, originally named Chouchou ("favourite") and then "Princesse." Its destiny changed in 1995, when Bernadette Chirac wished to give Diana, Princess of Wales, a distinctive French handbag on the occasion of the Princess's visit to Paris. The bag was presented at the inauguration of the Cézanne exhibition at the Grand Palais.

Diana carried it so constantly in public that Dior renamed the design Lady Dior in her honour. The association made it an instant phenomenon: two hundred thousand were sold within two years, and Dior's leather-goods turnover increased tenfold — turning a structured top-handle into one of the most recognisable bags in fashion.

Materials & craft

The Lady Dior is built from a rectangular, rigid frame and is assembled from 144 individual pieces. Its surface carries the house's signature Cannage quilting — a padded, woven-cane motif Christian Dior drew from the Napoléon III chairs on which guests sat at his very first show. From the top handle hang four metal charms spelling out D-I-O-R, in gold- or silver-tone finish. The bag has been produced in leather, velvet, microfibre, satin, denim, python, crocodile, tweed and jacquard.

How to choose & style

The medium is the canonical Lady Dior — carried by the top handles it reads formal, slung on the strap it relaxes into a day bag. Black lambskin with gold charms is the most enduring choice; the My ABCDior service lets the strap and charms be personalised. The mini and micro lean toward evening and occasion. The Cannage surface does the talking, so the rest of an outfit can stay quiet.