Saddle Bag
Galliano's equestrian It-bag — the first It-bag of the 21st century.
Story & heritage
John Galliano unveiled the Saddle during his Spring/Summer 2000 ready-to-wear show, staged in October 1999 — a collection that wove in references to Lauryn Hill and the rising influence of hip-hop on luxury. Its asymmetrical, saddle-shaped body, meant to be worn short-strapped and tucked tight under the arm, started a whole new silhouette and became an instant success.
The bag entered pop culture when Carrie Bradshaw carried it on Sex and the City, and by the end of 2001 it had helped lift Dior's accessories sales by 60%. After years in the wilderness it was revived in 2018 — in Kim Jones's debut Dior Men collection and Maria Grazia Chiuri's Fall/Winter womenswear — becoming, on its return, the first It-bag of the 21st century all over again.
Materials & craft
The Saddle takes its name and shape from an equestrian saddle: a curved crescent flap drops over a softly rounded body. The flap is secured by an antique-gold 'D' charm that dangles from a stirrup-shaped 'CD' pivot, and the bag is offered in smooth calfskin, Dior Oblique jacquard, and denim Oblique. The strap — plain leather or logo jacquard — clips to the same stirrup hardware that anchors the design's horsey vocabulary.
How to choose & style
Worn the original way — strap short, bag high under the arm — the Saddle reads most authentically Y2K. The blue Dior Oblique is the heritage choice and the most recognisable; black calfskin is the quietest. The Saddle pouch and mini scale down for evening. It is a bag that wants to be seen at the hip, where its crescent shape registers as a silhouette rather than a logo.
